Paris & Venice

Part I – Honeymoon in Paris
Sent November 25th

After a four hour nap upon arrival in Paris we ventured out to the only museum open at six pm- the Centre Pompidou. Greg insists he didn’t enjoy himself, but I thoroughly enjoyed pondering the subtle complexity of the Rothkos and Du Champs, and I swear he was slightly amused by the blank canvases as high art. Since we were near the Marais district I thought it would be fun to revisit Les Philosophes, the restaurant where I hold fond memories of an epic dinner on my first trip to Paris, with my friend Shaye seven years ago. Sadly, the meal did not live up to the memory. After a hungry 30 minute wait we were sat in a back room (I wasn’t even certain it was the same restaurant). I couldn’t eat the grossly under-cooked meat (medium?!?), but at least Greg enjoyed his entree (and mine). We hopped back on the Metro and navigated to within 2 blocks of our hotel. After an hour we gave up being lost and hopped in a cab. The cabbie laughed at us, as he drove us the two blocks home.

 Fascinated by Modern Art

Our home is a fantastically appointed hotel with Versace designed toilet rooms and Hermes toiletries, but in staying true to Paris- the size of a small shoe box. It’s quite cozy but I am as jet lagged as ever. On our first night Greg passed out at 12:30 and I fell asleep by 5:30. The next day we were awoke by the maid promptly at 12:55 pm. Our brunch began with tasty croissants and jam, followed by a massive platter of eggs and bacon, and finished off with French toast a la mode for dessert. I was stuffed, and watched in amazement as the skinny girls around us polished off their last course. It really is amazing how much food the French eat, and what they eat for that matter, and yet I’ve seen but a handful of fat Parisians. I have to think its the higher quality of food- unprocessed, non-GMO, and naturally farm to table. (Although, I also watched a girl smoke no less than six cigarettes while sitting at brunch.). We headed out to the Eiffel Tower and burned off our 1000 calorie meal while ascending the tower. We arrived at Notre Dame at sunset, just in time for the bells signaling mass and enjoyed the angelic singing, but we missed the shining glory of the stained glass windows. We then strolled along the Siene, and down the entire Champs Elysees, (which is currently occupied by a Christmas village aka really crowded carnival, that felt like Times Square). We arrived at the the end of the road and Greg insisted we climb to the top of the Arch de Triomphe. (Apparently, we will be hiking up every tall building in the city.) Despite the sore butt cheeks, the spiral staircase to the top proved well worth it, as we got to see the City of Lights in full glory. Exhaustion followed after a long day, but still another sleepless night for me. This time I fell asleep around 5 am and was awoke by the shouts of school children on recess across the street.

 Atop Le Eiffel

This morning after Croque Monsieur we headed back to Notre Dame to see the stained glass rose widows in the day time. I could have stayed in there all day, it really is magnifique! After pointing out people up on the roof, Greg of course wanted to climb to the top, but the line was long and he let it slide. We headed off to the Louvre and walked around like zombies for several hours. After crossing the Mona Lisa off the to do list we spent most of our time at the largest collection of Egyptian art I have ever seen. We were zombies looking at mummies! We traipsed through Louvre admiring the apartments of Charles and Francois and the Louis,’ and I showed off my knowledge of architectural details. Our trip over to Cafe Angelina afterwards thankfully lived up to the memory. After a half hour wait in the cold, during which an old French couple cut right in front of us in line, we sat down to the world’s best hot chocolate. Served in an individual tiny pitcher, it’s like cake batter with a small side of heavy creme. Honestly, the first cup is so good you can’t help but have the second one, but then it’s like- uh oh you’ve overdone it! We were so tired and full we decided to call it a day and head to our hotel. We’ve been home since 6 pm, and it’s now 2 am, and poor little me is lying here listening to the hubs breathe softly. Ughh!! Don’t worry I’m having a great time on our honeymoon, despite the absence of that crucial human need- sleep! Determined to sleep off this jet lag starrrrtiiing now!

Love,
Pam

Charles de Gaulle to Marco Polo
Sent November 27, 2013

Tuesday was another late start for us, as the maid again knocked promptly at 12:50 pm. Thank God we’re on vacation and have absolutely nothing on the agenda but site-seeing and fun. We headed off to my favorite area of Paris, Montmartre. After our steep descent from the Metro up to the great domed Sacre Couer, Greg decided we need to take it 330 steps further and climb the steep, spiral staircase to the top. We were all alone as we ascended inside the sacred, imposing building. As the varying steps led us up a narrowing, claustrophobia inducing passage way with low overheads and sharp, pointed iron railings, we remarked on the carefree spirit of France. It’s refreshing to be trusted in a potentially dangerous situation, unlike in the US where everything is so regulated and adults are treated like children at all times.

We strolled around the perfectly Parisian boutiques and boulangeries for the remainder of the daylight and then made our way down towards the Moulin Rouge, for a visit to the Musee de Eroticisme. Why not spice things up a bit? Weee woooh! This is our honeymoon after all. We were not inspired by the exhibit, and lingered longest at the exit spreading our Metro map over a sex toy display while plotting our dinner plan.

 Mapping out dinner at Musee d’Eroticism

Le Coupe Chou was described as an overly romantic restaurant in the Latin Quarter, and it really delivered. The old house had low ceilings lined with summer beams, multiple fireplaces, spiral staircases, and all sorts of nooks and crannies. We were so excited to get out of the cold we arrived the minute they opened, and were sat in a dark, cozy waiting area with well worn Recamiers and Bergeres. It was so comfy we were disappointed they called us to our table so quickly. We enjoyed every bite of our last meal in Paris, but the house-made Napolean was definitely the highlight.

This morning before we bid adieu to beautiful Paris, I ran into one of the thousands of pharmacies (there are honestly four on every corner) and picked up some bargain beauty supplies. They really have the best stuff, and unexpectedly cheap!
I will miss all the subtle and exotic light fragrances of the parfumeries and boulangeries that waft through Paris. I will not miss the not so subtle smell of pee pee in the easily, navigable metros. I’m sure my belly will appreciate a break from the baguettes and croissants I’ve been inhaling, but I’m sad about all the stinky, moldy cheese and the raw steak tartare I did not eat this time around, so we’ll have to come back soon. J’adore Paris!

Our morning flight over to Venezia was unremarkable, but what happened after was a little distressing, and led to a little fit of crying from you know who- Greg! Just kidding- ’twas me. We took the wrong bus from the airport but confusingly arrived in the right spot. From there we planned to jump in a cab over to the hotel. The taxi driver said it was not possible, and that we must take a water taxi. We headed down to the water and found a man that looked like he might be working, but sadly he told us we had to walk and pointed us down the water. (I should mention it’s freezing out.) We hauled our bags down the cobbles, over several bridges and through narrow alleys, map-less and unassured. After asking several people for help I started to cry like an idiot. Magically, we found our lovely hotel. We had walked right past it, which is not hard to do since the only sign is facing the water.

After a bit of a rough start I am now in love with Venice too. Our stroll to dinner involved six foot bridges. There are no cars here and the canal lined streets are impossibly beautiful. I’ve been transported back in time to the land of Montagues and Capulets. I can’t wait to see it during the day!

XOXO
Pam

Part II – Honeymoon in Venice
Sent December 1, 2013

For the past four days we have been walking and floating all over the most unique city on Earth. Venice is a spectacular Italian water world that really must be experienced first hand. We set out early Thursday morning, navigating the interconnected lagoons and found our way to a large open air fish market. We climbed over the famed Rialto Bridge, a massive marble bridge with 12 boutiques lining each side, then hopped in a gondola, like proper tourists. Our gondolier snaked us through the narrow canals, shouting “Oyee” around each turn letting other boaters know we were coming. He explained there are 411 bridges connecting the 118 islands of Venice. There are no cars in Venice, there aren’t even bicycles. Most families have a boat to get around. The bottom floor of the buildings and homes are largely uninhabitable due to flooding. Greg and I wondered about mold, and determined that this incredible city would probably be condemned and shut down if it were sinking on US soil.

We set back out on a maze-like trek through narrow alleys of leaning buildings, leading to more narrow passageways that always look like dead ends. We eventually arrived at Piazza San Marco, a picturesque and very famous Venetian site where pigeons, tourists and vendors selling Carnevale masks congregate overlooking the Adriatic Sea. We toured the giant Byzantine Church of Gold. It is said you will become wealthy just by breathing in the gold flakes inside St. Mark’s. It is truly a spectacle!

The sun came out for a few minutes of our trip so we thought it would be nice to sit outside the Doge’s Palace next door to the Cathedral and have a beverage. We saw a sign for 3.50€ hot cocoa inside so you can imagine our shock when the bill came and we were charged 13.50€ per hot cocoa for sitting outside and having it delivered by a tuxedoed waiter. I embarrassed Greg by questioning the ludicrous bill and calling it a joke to the waiter’s face. I know we are tourists, but $30 for hot cocoa? I guess he could sense we had actually just ingested gold flakes.

After getting good and lost off the map, we gave up on our hotel recommended lunch spot and settled on a pizza place (the first of many pizza places over the next few days). Tired and far from home, we took our first vaporetto back to the hotel after lunch. The vaporetto is the water bus. There are over 25 bus lines and they run like clockwork 24/7. Passengers wait at the floating stop, and the vaporetti arrive like subway trains.

Our jet lag finally wore off, and we slept comfortably in our 18th century Rococo hotel. The friendliness of the staff, the heavy damask wallpaper and drapery, and Empire style canopy bed were a warm welcome home after being out in the cold all day. On a side note, I tried looking under the gilded ormolu furnishings to see if the antiques were real, I’m pretty sure they were reproductions, at any rate very appropriate to Venice.

On Friday we were picked up by a private water taxi and shuttled over to the island of Murano. The island is famous for glass blowing. We were given a short demonstration followed by an awkward sales pitch and ending with a frustrated Italian regretting wasting his time with us. Murano Glass is really expensive, and really not my taste! Our wait for the taxi back was longer than we’d spent in the showroom. We were eventually joined by a French couple who had actually purchased something, therefore we were dropped off at Piazza San Marco, all the way on the other side of the island with them.

We decided to climb up the Campanile (sadly they wouldn’t let us take the stairs). From 300 feet up we admired the sweeping vistas before heading off to lunch. (More pizza – this time I ate an entire pizza by myself … followed by gelato in the Piazza … and later an entire plate of spaghetti and meatballs for dinner – look out!)

That afternoon we explored the Doge’s Palace, a massive Byzantine and Moorish building on the Adriatic Sea. The Doge’s were powerful heads of state that ruled Venice for centuries. They had close relations with Shah’s and conducted heavy trading with the East, thus the Moorish influence seen in Venice (and really nowhere else Italy).

On our last day we set out to the island of Burano, an island known for colorful houses and lace making. We stopped for lunch at Da Romano, a famous restaurant that has served the likes of Keith Richards and Bobby Deniro, and shared the best meal we had in Venice- the freshest calamari I’ve ever tasted, shrimp risotto, and a chocolate cake…we resisted licking the plate clean. Afterwards, we strolled the lace gallery and photographed the pretty houses and canals. We were a short hop over to Torcello so we took the water taxi over. We walked straight to the Byzantine church, paid 1.50€ to use the WC turned around, and directly hopped back on the boat. (Torcello is highly missable.) Our trek home was a bit long but we finally made it. The announcer always calls out the stops in English as well as Italian, “Nexta estoppa…Riva de Biasia.” That was our stop and Greg called the walk back the “Trail of Tears” as that was where my cold, confused meltdown had occurred (right next to the hotel).
When we first arrived in Venice, everything was so unfamiliar that I cried when we couldn’t find our hotel. Just a couple days later we were so familiar with our surroundings and felt perfectly at home jumping on the vaporetto and navigating to our familiar stop. Everything becomes familiar even though you’re in a foreign land. That’s one of the things I most love about traveling, the heightened and condensed living experiences. Of course, traveling with loved ones and having someone to share it all with makes it all the better. I could not have imagined a more romantic and fun honeymoon then Paris and Venice, because I was with my romantic and fun hubs!

XOXO
Pam