Great Scotland!

On Jul 12, 2012, at 1:55 PM
On my Own in Edin-bur-uh

Well, the whole trip couldn’t be rainbows and unicorns! It’s rained all but fifteen minutes since I got here, the David Keil workshop has been a major disappointment, and unbeknownst to me Edinburgh is notoriously unfriendly so I’ve had to really make an effort to talk to people first, and haven’t really met any mates. In fact, two of my four evenings thus far have been spent hiding under the covers with the heat on, missing sunny San Diego. Now it’s almost 10 am, and having missed yoga again, I’m not even out and about yet! Just lounging here reading my book, watching the BBC, writing, and staring out at the rain. Sigh!! (I know everyone must be crying over poor me and all my leisure time!)

It never gets dark here and has made it really hard for me to fall asleep. Even in the middle of the night it looks like dawn, so getting up early has been rough, especially since the best way to meet people is to go out to the pubs, which unfortunately isn’t the best way to plan for 5:30 am yoga. Not to mention, I haven’t felt warm and fuzzy from the workshop, the instructor, or the Shala, and thus uninspired to make the effort that early.

On my first night in town I enjoyed a couple pints while chatting with a lovely mom and son at the pub around the corner. Reiss, 20, looked like a young George Harrison and had seen more of the world then me already. Karen, 51, looked about my age, had a boyfriend that actually is, and worked at Harvey Nicols.

Unfortunately, she wasn’t working the next day when I headed to Harvey Nics for wellies and a proper jacket, giving in to the cold and wet summer weather. I found the most adorable Burberry trench, but bought the Barbour instead. On a literary pub tour later that evening, tour guide, Simon, remarked twice how he’d not seen a white Barbour before. Met some decent folks there, a traveler who’d been out of the U.S. since October and married just last summer (not a good sign?!?) and a few fun girls from Edinburgh, just out for a wee bit of fun. Weird married guy wanted to meet up again but gave me a sort of Ted Bundy vibe, and I was too shy to ask the girls to indulge a solo tourist in a meal later in the week, it was a fun evening though! Learned a lot about Robert Louis Stevenson and Robert Burns, the drinkers and thinkers they were! The gist of it – When a country loses its identity, it creates legend!

The mellifluous Scots do like the long verses and you can spend days reading the multi paragraphed descriptions in the National Gallery a good array from Davinci to Titian, and the unrivaled Royal Gallery of Scotland. The scenic working marina area known as The Shores, was a good spot for fresh seafood, and the final resting place of the good ship Brittania- Lady Di’s couture still hanging in the closet! The tourist trap Edinburgh Castle is still worth it, as is the over-budget, yet unfinished Parliament building home to some great exhibits. I passed on the Palace of Hollyrood where the Queen sleeps when she visits hubby Duke of Edinburgh’s home and instead toured the deserted graveyards where John Muir and notable Mac’s and Fraser’s lay, then hiked up stunning Colten Hill for pics amongst the Romesque ruins. Then what do you do after a nine hour walk around the city when the sun finally comes out? You hike up Arthur’s Seat for the best view of the city! It’s 45 minutes straight up but I saw people pushing strollers and smoking ciggy’s, so no problem for me! However, when I got to what I thought was the top the clouds came around again, and I look up realizing I really was tired so headed back down to my inn.

Jan owns the B&B I’m staying at, and greeted me on arrival Sunday, with a whirlwind tour of the city via pointing out the window at far off landmarks. Having assured her my sense of direction was severely lacking and asked several safety related questions about walking through the park late at night she must have gotten the sense I was young and naive- “How auld are ye? 24 or so? (Yes!) What are ye doing here in Edinburuh, ye running away from something? Break up with yer boyfriend did ye?” (What?? Mind yer business lady!!) She’s a high school teacher, and apparently has no problem prying and embarrassing everyone. Also doesn’t seem to mind awkward moments in general, as I attempted to ask her if I might stow some luggage in the giant empty house while I popped over to Glasgow and Inverness for three days and three trains, so I began with- “Jan, when are you off to Italy for holiday?” to which she responded, “Ye need not concern yourself with that, aye?”…Ok, well remember when you were laughing how Europeans pack light, and Americans pack everything, as you watched me climb up two sets of spiral staircases, no offer to assist…Gee whiz, lady! It’s my own fault though, I bought a backpack thinking I’d pack light and found I have just as much stuff only it now requires more ironing. Although, Nicole, who turned up with three times as much luggage for one week, was impressed!

It’s been pointed out that I talk a bit too much about food so I’ve tried to pare down my meal narratives, quite an easy task in the UK so far, but now is the time. I am due. It is now 1 pm at the Salisbury Arms and I’ve just devoured an appetizer of pork belly with a deep fried apple ring apple cooked over black pudding with mesclun, a delicious goat cheese and vegetable savory flavored salad just the right side of Indian, and my very own chocolate lava cake, washed down with a giant glass of Chardonnay. Sublime! Apparently, my B&B, is quite close to some excellent dining and Arthur’s Seat, so now with a full belly and improper shoes, I will take another run at the summit!

The best thing about Edinburgh is you can walk everywhere and as you may have guessed, my wee feet have literally been all over the entire map!

Now, Nicole, Shaye and my Mom at least, will be shocked and appalled but I actually wore sneakers! Twice! It was wonderful, felt like walking around on a Tempurpedic all day loudly proclaiming, “I am American!” A welcome respite from the wellies, while fun for jumping in puddles, blistered me. But un-level heads prevailed and I’ve returned to my cuter pairs, so wish me luck on the mountain. The sun is actually out!

XOXO

On Jul 17, 2012, at 8:39:53 PM GMT, Pamela Novellino <pamelanovellino@gmail.com> wrote:
Wee Glimpse of Glasgow & History of the Hielands

After slinking away from jaded Jan and her Georgian townhome, I grabbed my final spelt scone from the bakery across the park, stowed my oversize sherpa pack, and popped on over to Glasgow for a quick 24 hour tour, booked solely because I’d messed up my dates, but well worth it nonetheless. During a quick bite and wee tipple at Oban Mar, a cool, converted cathedral near the botanical gardens, I realized three things- one, the Glaswegians are quite cordial and helpful, two, the Scottish burr is alive and well here (after the chap next to me repeated three times, “At mellow?” I concluded he was asking what sort of red wine I was drinking) and lastly, as a rule of thumb, the fellows that hang around pubs mid-day are not quite the same caliber as say…”ladies who lunch.” Friendly for sure, but when they say they’re also “on holiday” you can rest assured they’re unemployed (no judgement!!) and some are a bit, shall we say, unsavory? Anyway, back to site seeing! After a quick tour around the gardens, I visited the most impressive neo-gothic cathedral nearby, one of the only ones in Scotland to survive the Reformation, wandered across the bridge to visit the “Pere La Chaise” of Glasgow, then found myself standing right in front of the Hop on Hop Off bus stop and hopped on. In doing so, I was able to take in the Smithsonian style Kelvingrove Museum, tea at the famous Willow Tea Rooms that Charles Rennie Mackintosh designed as a place for ladies to go on there own in public (perfect!), the GOMA (which would never be mistaken for the MOMA), and the People’s Palace- a fantastic, summary glimpse into the rich history of wealthy tobacco merchants of Byre Street and life in the worst slums 19th Century Europe had to offer. A good dose of Glasgow for one day!

The next morning, Scotrail transported me to enchanting Inverness! We must have passed thousands of Hieland Coos (Highland cows) wandering and lounging between the lochs, streams and trees. I love train travel and this was the prettiest journey I’ve taken. On arrival at my B&B, I was greeted by Mary, sweetest lady ever (reminded me of my Aunt Helene) and called in her husband, Frank, and grandson, Kiernan, to meet the American girl. After settling in, I headed out to tour the loch to look for olde Nessie! I didn’t see the live version, but our hielarious tour driver excitedly pointed out the giant fake one, and I enjoyed the most relaxing afternoon out on the water. The day was a perfect mix of sun and rain making rainbows (again!) on the horizon, and a lake that sparkled like diamonds. I’m not sure if it was the wine or just the Highland majesty, but it was brilliant! Later that evening after my delicious Scottish salmon over mashed potatoes, which actually came with a side of potatoes, I headed out to the square and lucky me ran straight into bagpipes and dancing. It was some kind of Pagan summer ritual, and the locals told me it goes on all the time, but I can’t get enough of the bagpipes and loved it to bits! Later at a nearby watering hole, I met a nice fella named Gordon, just in town from Aberdeen, marshaling the Scottish Open. His accent was so thick I couldn’t understand a word he said unless I looked directly at him. Now pardon the un-PCness but I can best describe the sound of it, in a noisy bar, as listening to someone who’s deaf speak English.

I was soon swept up by Wee Beefy Brian’s Stagger Party by the only girl invited along, best friend of the groom, Emma. She recruited me into the big group of chaps from Aberdeen, ranging in age from 30-80 (father of the bride was the most “pissed” of the bunch) and included four Ian’s, and headed out to no less than nine bars. I got an invite to the wedding this Saturday in Aberdeen, and only wish I could be there to see them all in kilts and hear the bagpipes. I had a fantastic time and woke up with a hangover only a drink can cure, but instead ate my hearty Scottish breakfast – exactly the same as an English breakfast, only comes with a potato scone- and headed straight to church. I believe I’ve walked through the doors of more chapels in the last three weeks then in the last three years so hopefully God’s happy with me for visiting his houses, and this time I actually sat for mass! It was more like an Andrew Lloyd Weber production, the choir was divine! They came out of nowhere marching into the church and I was so delighted. The most interesting part was having to walk all the way up to the altar, at the very front of the large cathedral, to kneel and take the host and then have the old ladies pour the wine into my mouth. I was quite hesitant, what with germs and all, but who am I to deny the blood of Christ?

After that, I was followed briefly followed by a strange stalker boy who kept saying “Hi,” “Hi,” “Hi,” and popping up all over town, but before I had to karate chop him I jumped in a cab to Culloden Battlefields.

While I’ve always loved bagpipes, tartans, whiskey, and fun accents, after reading Outlander last Fall, I was compelled to come experience first hand, the beauty of the Highlands, and learn more of the history of the clans, the Jacobites, Bonnie Prince Charles and the battle that changed the course of history, and Culloden is where it all went down. After several victorious battles under the leadership of the Bonnie Prince, the clans took their final stand against the Royal Army and were brutally defeated in April 1746. After this, the Brits marched through the Highlands murdering civilians, mistaking their dress for clan membership, burning alive those harboring survivors, and changing the face of Scottish culture forever. Tartan was banned and only brought back into fashion, basically for costume, generations later when Queen Victoria donned it. The efforts of the Jacobites, though ultimately ending in defeat, were said to inspire the Americans who saw the success of early efforts as chinks in the Royal armor.

The battlefield was quiet and sobering, but the interactive four screen projection of the bloodiest several minutes of the battle, ending of course, with a beautiful song and flute left me with a very heavy heart and I cheered up with some tea and Millionaire’s Shortbread in the cafe before heading back to town.

I was bloody exhausted with the previous night’s activities and the full day of site seeing but it made me sad to be leaving Inverness so soon the next morning so I just kept walking around town in the rain. Then I figured I might be able to walk the river all the way out to the loch since it never gets dark, so headed out that way. I was completely sheltered from the rain under a canopy of trees, and taken with the beauty of it all. I was certain I would see a wood sprite or some kind of Highland ghost but wasn’t frightened or anything until I realized I hadn’t seen a live human being in a while, so decided I would take the next foot bridge and start heading back when suddenly a creature darted out of the woods scaring the bejesus out of me. I realized it was just a little old King George Cavalier, followed by it’s equally cute old lady owner, who told me the loch was toooo far and I should head back.

Needless to say, I loved the Scottish Highlands but now I’m on to Ireland!
XOXO